Tuesday, March 23, 2010

Biker Momma (Vung Tau - March 5th to 8th)

For the three days I spent in Vung Tau, I was hanging out with David, Peter and their beautiful daughter Chloe, who is 8 years old. We had so much fun together. The day after we arrived, David rented scooters for us, and they taught me how to ride one. After a few practice runs around the parking lot, we set out along the waterfront road.

The traffic rules in Asia are unlike anything I have experienced, and I had concerns that if I drove defensively, as we do in Canada, I might cause an accident. However, the traffic in Vung Tau is quite light compared to Saigon, so I was fine. We cruised along the ocean road for a while, then stopped at a seafood restaurant for lunch - a patio built on stilts over the ocean. A beautiful view, fresh ocean breezes and we feasted on fresh seafood. Then we took the highway up to Ba Ria to visit the orphanage and Molly again. We spent quite a long time there that afternoon, and drove the scooters back in the dark. I was always sandwiched between Peter and David, and we trusted Peter's uncanny sense of direction to get us back to our hotel. It was quite exhilarating! There are so many scooters and motorbikes on the road in Vietnam. It's an experience I couldn't have had anywhere else, and wouldn't have had without David, Peter and Chloe. A big thanks to them for giving me memories!

Back at the hotel, we spent a lot of time in the pool. Chloe is a great swimmer, and we played a lot of games, swam races across the pool, and watched Peter do a synchronized swimming routine! He did it for the entertainment of some wedding guests one evening - a reception that spilled out to the pool deck while we were in it. Some children picked a bunch of yellow flowers and tossed them into the pool while we were swimming. It was beautiful. However, we felt somewhat like goldfish in a bowl, hence the synchronized swimming performance!

Chloe was my best friend those few days we spent together. We became very attached to each other. She is an amazing, creative and inventive little girl. Some of the games she would invent was: we had a newspaper one morning, so she gave me a pencil and said 'blank out all the "the" words'. She took one news article, and I took another. Try it sometime! It's an interesting exercise. Then she looked over my work and pointed out that I missed a few...

Another game we played was in the back seat of a taxi on the way to the orphanage. We both have the same camera, but hers was pink and mine is green. I had a picture of her Dad holding Molly on the display screen of my camera, and she took a picture of it. Then I took a picture of her camera's screen, and we went back and forth about 8 times. In the end, the picture of Peter and Molly were just some orange blobs - we both got a kick out of it!

Chloe is continuing to travel the world with her Dads for the next few months, so when they were saying goodbye, I gave her my necklace to wear to remember me for the rest of her trip. We live in the same neighbourhood in Vancouver, so I said when we both get home, she can return my necklace and tell me about all the places it travelled with her.

Out of all the people in the world I could have spent those particular memorable days with, I couldn't have chosen any better people. They are very special individuals, and I am very grateful to have had the chance to get to know them better, and have their support, guidance and love during the days I first met Molly. They will forever be part of Molly's story.

AWOL in Vietnam

I have been stuck in a small town with very limited internet access, so have not posted for about 2 weeks.

We are both fine - Molly is delightful!

Will try to get some postings up soon.


Saturday, March 6, 2010

Journey to Molly

We met up with another family from Vancouver who are travelling through HCMC to Vung Tau. Fortunately, they were coming through now - perfect timing for me! I invited them for dinner, then asked if I could hitch a ride in their van to Vung Tau.

David and Peter adopted Chloe from Vung Tau 3 ("VT3") about 8 years ago, and have brought Chloe back more than once to visit the orphanage. On Friday, Loan arranged the same van and driver to take us there, and Peter generously phoned the hotel they were booked in and arranged a room for me.

On the way out of town, we stopped at a huge department store (Walmart Superstore?) to buy supplies for the orphanage. David took a cart, Peter took a cart, and Chloe and I took a third cart, and we went crazy! Chloe and I shopped for the things we knew best - baby clothes and toys. We just walked down the aisles and put anything we wanted into the cart! What a shop-aholic's dream! When all the carts were full, it took about 45 mins to ring it all through. We loaded it into the van and carried on.

A big thanks to Merel & Nathan, and Margie & Larry, who contributed some funds to this shopping trip. I added a little bit too, and we had a total of $200 to contribute.

We went directly to the orphanage. We met the director at the gate, and while she was talking I recognized the words 'Minh Sanh'. I nodded yes! and they directed me to the baby room.

I looked around for Molly, but recognized Maya first, then Phuong. Finally, I saw Molly standing in her crib. I went to her, picked her up, and she cuddled right into me. What an amazing feeling, to finally have her in my arms!

David took a bunch of pictures of us. I looked at Loan and said some words in Vietnamese I had been practicing: "Day la con gai, cua toi". It means: "This is my daughter".

While I was crouched down at Molly's crib, my purse strap fell off my shoulder, and a couple of other babies pounced on it. Eventually, I looked around to see where it was, and Phuong had the strap around his neck, and the purse was dragging on the ground. He was running around, and not letting anyone else touch his purse! I got pictures - I'll show him when he's older what a little monkey he was!

This first visit was overwhelming. Taking a closer look at Molly, I saw that she had a really bad case of scabies all over her body, and her feet are covered in infected lesions. She also has a goose-egg bump on her head, and some chest congestion.

It took me overnight to decide to take her out of the orphanage to take her back to HCMC. I found I couldn't make the arrangements until Monday, but I'm lining up the transportation and doctor appointments with help from Loan and Susan.

I visited the next day as well, and spent a little more time with the other children whose parents I have been in touch with. Molly has 2 other friends in the orphanage who will also come to Vancouver and will remain friends, as we parents know each other. I have also been emailing with a family from Ontario who will adopt another one of Molly's friends from VT3. I have tried to take pictures and send information home to these families. I have word that the Ontario family will be arriving next week, and another Vancouver family could be coming soon.

I will visit every day until I take Molly to Saigon. If all goes well, I hope to return to Vung Tau and continue to visit the kids at the orphanage. It's amazing how attached I have gotten to the babies - there are 19 babies in the room, and only 2 nounous on shift at one time. Plus, there are so many older children. Beautiful, curious, amazing kids! It's been a great experience so far.

Lost in Tra Vinh - Part 2

On our second day in Tra Vinh we got dressed up in the same, too hot, 'nice' clothes which were now a bit sweaty and wrinkled. We were all wearing the same underwear from the day before, and only Doris had any makeup on. My hair was a mess, but I couldn't do anything about it.
But we didn't care! It was the G&R day! We got to the 10am appointment, and were told the guy still couldn't be found to sign off on the files. It was really devastating. We were told to come back at 3pm.
So we spent the day visiting pagodas and seeing the sights. It was nice for the parents to have this extra time to see the area where their children were born. We stopped by the orphanage for another visit for a while.
Finally, at 3pm, we tried again. Still no signature. However, we were told to wait, and about an hour later, a man drove up on a motorcycle with some folders under his arm. As he walked past me, I saw Quan's name on one of them!
So the ceremonies happened! Doris and Nelson were first. Loan translated and took pictures, I videotaped and cried, and their little boy was put into their arms.
Then it was Susan's turn - I videotaped and cried harder. Quan was put into her arms forever. I felt like part of my family had come home too.
We then had a 5 hour drive home. Quan let us know when he needed something - he knows how to scream! But both babies were mostly content. The parents, I think, were pretty happy!
Finally, home! Well, the hotel home. But it was nice to be back there and settle in. I had a really nice afternoon playing on the floor with Quan and Uncle Howard the next day, and I have helped out with the 3am feedings. He is a wonderful happy little boy.
You should see him when he giggles! His dumpling face gets all squishy and he has a two-tooth smile! That smile can take your heart away!

Friday, March 5, 2010

March 5, 2010

I met Molly today! She's gorgeous, cuddly and cute as a button! She cuddled right into me the first time I picked her up, and was happy to be held.

I also met Maya, Phuong and Nhan, the 3 other kids whose parents I have been in touch with. I will spend time with all of them, and send lots of pictures home.

Wednesday, March 3, 2010

Lost in Tra Vinh

Fasten your seat belts - this was a wild ride!


Tra Vinh is a province in the Mekong Delta in southern Vietnam, and also the name of the main town in the province. It was a 5 hour drive from HCMC through typical towns and villages along the highway (?) and the arms and channels of the Mekong River. It is not a touristy kind of place. But we were going for the afternoon - first to visit the babies, have lunch, and then to the Justice Dept for the adoption ceremony at 3pm. Plus the 5 hour drive back to HCMC.


The group of us set out about 6am - Loan, D&N, Susan, Uncle Howard, myself and our driver Quoc - in a nice air conditioned van. Quoc was a very good driver - Loan complained (in English) that he is too cautious - he drives too slow, but she hires him all the time because he keeps the families safe. Then he got a speeding ticket.


As we were driving through the outskirts of HCMC, we passed through rural areas, but we found that there were often some stands set at the side of the road offering food and refreshments. A few of them had freshly butchered meat hanging on sticks to sell for dinner. A few of them had freshly butchered dogs hanging from sticks to sell for dinner. We didn't stop to shop.


As the morning progressed, there was much to see. I saw rice 'farms' all over the place - all small plots with coconut palm, banana trees and other vegetation separating the plots. Cows were tethered in the fields - I think they probably eat their fill, fertilize the ground, and the rest gets harvested. It was harvest time, so the fields were golden yellow. There was lots of activity - the rice was being cut, gathered into sheathes and threshed by hand. I saw big haystacks of the rice stalks, and the rice kernels get spread out on mats on the ground to dry. In some areas, the rice is spread out on the road to dry, because it is hotter on the asphalt. In some areas, the farmers were raking the rice on one lane of the road, and the cars and motorbikes drove down the other lane. There are no rules in Vietnam.


Right on time, we arrived at the orphanage. Everyone was nervous, dressed in 'nice' clothes that were too hot, then weepy and happy when we first saw the babies. I had offered to videotape this meeting for D&N as Uncle Howard was doing the same for Susan. But, of course, my attention was split between the two families. I was holding the camera towards D&N, and cranking my neck around to see little Quan. We spent over an hour there. There were about a dozen babies in cribs. The nou-nous (nannies) would tie a cloth hammock to the rungs of the cribs, and attach a long tether to each of them to rock them. One nanny could rock more than one baby at a time, by pulling on the long tethers.


I started playing with a couple of other babies, and one little girl took my heart away. She was beautiful - almond shaped eyes smiling at me, and curly hair standing up off her sweaty head. Loan told me that she had parents waiting for her in Canada. Good thing, or I would have taken her home with me. I hope I see her adoption announcement in the TDH newsletter. I would love to know which family she goes home to.


Loan also said that most of the babies have been proposed to families, even the babies with handicaps or medical issues. I did see a baby boy with club feet and other obvious, serious health issues, which absolutely broke my heart, but I could see that he is well cared for there, and hopefully he will continue to get the care he needs.


Afterwards, we drove to the centre market to shop, drove by the hospital where both boys were born, and stopped by a pagoda in the middle of the market. I said a prayer for the baby that I lost a few years ago, and burst into tears. I had a good cry - in fact, I think I cried more that day than the parents did.


We were then told that the two files didn't have the final signature by an official of the People's Committee. The Justice was apologetic, but there was nothing he could do that day. Unexpectedly, we had to spend the night!
None of us were prepared for an overnight trip. Most of us had a change of clothes, but there was much discussion about odorous underwear. We spent some time running around the town again, buying toothbrushes and contact solution, and checked into the only hotel Loan thought was suitable.
It's supposed to be a 3 star hotel, but I figure it loses a point or two for the 2" cockroach in my bathroom. Luckily, on the ceiling over my bed, there was a gecko watching over me, keeping me safe from the mosquitos.
However, I woke up the next morning, and nothing had run over my face during the night, so all was well.
More to come - stay tuned!

Negotiating HCMC

Day 1 in HCMC brought us Doris and Nelson, and Uncle Howard. D&N are parents from Montreal who are also adopting a baby boy from Tra Vinh orphanage. They phoned us just as we were about to set out in the morning. We had lunch, then checked out another hotel as a possible cheaper alternative to where were are now.
These two tasks took all day! We first walked many blocks around District 1 until we found a suitable restaurant, then took a taxi across town to the other hotel. Pacific Gardens is suitable and less expensive, but it's not nearly as nice as the Somerset, and the neighbourhood is not as nice either. We walked around the neighborhood a little, and found a supermarket nearby, then took a taxi home. The heat and humidity took it's toll - I think we napped for a while. However, later that evening, Susan's brother Howard arrived from Toronto. We chatted, then headed for bed, still suffering from jet lag.
Day 2 was busy. More running around town in the heat and humidity. We took a taxi to the Ben Thanh market, which was only 1 km away, but our taxi driver took us on a scenic loop around District 1, without us even having to ask for a tour! He might have been expecting a tip for that.
After a little shopping and a bowl of Pho for lunch, we walked way too far in the heat and humidity to my hair appointment. I arrived dripping with sweat, and overheated - you know, when you are so hot you continue to sweat for an hour afterwards, even in an air conditioned salon?
Anyways, they offered me lots of water, then took me to wash my hair. I layed down on one of 5 leather beds with my head on a foam block in the sink. The woman washed and massaged my head for about 10 minutes. Then she washed and massaged again! I went back to the chair nice and relaxed, to discuss the cut with the stylist, Loc. Loc didn't speak much English, but I had ripped a picture of Jodi Foster out of a magazine to show him what I wanted.
After an hour of snipping and primping I had a haircut that didn't look anything like Jodi Foster's hair, but it was nice. I had stopped sweating by then, and my hair had been washed, massaged, cut and styled for over an hour. Oops! And now I was late for a meeting back at my hotel.
I thought our hotel was just a few blocks away, so I started walking in the heat and humidity again. The blocks on the map were WAY longer in real life. I arrived back at the Somerset sweating profusely, my hair a matted mess, and late.
The facilitator from our agency, Loan, was informing Susan and D&N about the trip we were taking the next day to Tra Vinh to adopt their babies. We got a lot of information, agreed to meet at 6am the next morning, then decided to shop for a few things before the babies arrived.
The group of us set out (by taxi) the short distance to the baby store to buy strollers for the two families, then walked another kilometer or so to the grocery store to buy food, formula, milk and Tiger beer before calling it a night. It had been a long and busy day, but it was also alot of fun. HCMC is a crazy, exotic, vibrant city. I was just beginning to become familiar with the District 1 area, and really enjoying being out in the streets.
Here are a few things I have leared in my first 2 days in HCMC:
  • To buy fresh produce in a grocery store, you must take your produce to a clerk to be weighed and labelled BEFORE you go to the checkout line. If you don't, a clerk will come and get you, drag you out of the line and take you back to the produce area.
  • Traffic is unlike anything I have ever experienced before. To cross a street, put your head down and walk into oncoming traffic. They will go around you and you will live. If you look up at the traffic, they will assume you will go around them, and you will not live.
  • You can order anything in a restaurant you want. You can even point at the menu item, and/or a picture of the food you want. You will get something else. Just eat it.
  • In 36 degree weather with 85% humidity, I sweat a lot.
  • The coffee is really good here. Even coffee in a can is good.
  • Uncle Howard is really funny!